![]() The window is moved across the study area and hence a map of the inferred water depth is produced. An equation representing the theoretical behaviour of the waves is then fitted to the measured values, yielding a water depth and, if selected, a current vector for that small area. The size of this window is selectable depending on the area being studied, but the aim is to have between one and four wavelengths of the dominant waves present within the window. ![]() As the analysis approach is based on Fourier methods, the wave behaviour must be assumed to be uniform within that small window. The data analysis has been developed over a number of years and works by determining the wavelength and direction of the ocean waves in a small window on the ocean for a range of wave frequencies. However, this would allow the bathymetry of an area to be monitored during storms when large changes might be expected. Waves tend to be visible on the radar images only when the wave height is larger than about 1m, so in contrast to more conventional surveying techniques this method of mapping is only appropriate during wave events. Summary images of each record were produced and sent via a broadband link to the POL website so that the status of the system could be monitored via the internet, including radar snapshots (Figure 4) of the sea surface and time-lapse images, which show persistent features very well. ![]() This was coupled to a PC-based digitisation system, allowing 10-minute animations of the sea surface to be recorded automatically every hour. Surveys of the beaches and embayments were conducted at regular intervals both on foot and by boat by the University of East Anglia team.Ī Kelvin Hughes marine X-band radar with a 2.4m rotating antenna was deployed on the roof of the Sea Palling Inshore Lifeboat Station overlooking the offshore breakwaters and associated embayments (Figure 3). In addition, an ARGUS video system to study the near-shore processes and an X-band marine radar for looking over longer ranges were installed. Teams from the Universities of East Anglia, Plymouth and Liverpool and from the Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory (POL) began work in 2006 with a wide range of equipment for monitoring waves, currents and sediment dynamics (Figure 3).
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